Saturday 23 March 2013

Discovery of the Year! A Hidden Gem in Rioja...







Last week while travelling in Rioja, I visited an amazing Bodega which is just about the best kept secret of the region. We are talking about the golden mile of Rioja: Barrio de la Estación de Ferrocarril, Haro in the heart of Rioja Alta. It is a tiny stretch of road surrounding the original railway line Tudela - Bilbao, home to some of the greatest names in Rioja: Lopez de Heredia (Tondonia), Muga, Roda, la Rioja Alta, Bilbalnas...a fairly impressive list of neighbours! Tucked away in the middle of these prestigious Bodegas is little Gomez Cruzado who has a long history dating back to 1886. Below is a copy of the poster advertising the wines in 1922...

Original poster for Gomez Cruzado 1922

So how has this gone unnoticed for so long? The owners are Mexican and nearly all the wine was shipped over to South America, leaving very little for the domestic Spanish market and nothing for other export. It is now managed by two young guns in Rioja – a pairing of the best Riojan know-how in viticulture and winemaking – and they have spotted the incredible potential to make brilliant wines with great heritage and provenance. They control 50ha of vines in premium sites in Rioja Alavesa (between San Vincente de la Sonsierra and Laguardia) and also from sites in Rioja Alta, close to Cenicero and also in higher altitude regions south of Nájera (750m).


The Bodega in the heart of Haro
There are various interesting wines from Joven to Reserva, including some single varietal, single vineyard wines. But the most amazing wine I tasted was a 2001 Gran Reserva in magnum. Before the new management came into the Bodega, the owners didn’t know what to do with this wine so had wanted to uncork it and pour it down the drain! I couldn’t believe my ears when I was told this, having to ask them to repeat the word for “uncork” in Spanish (surely it was a misunderstanding?!). A great wine from the best vintage in the last few decades. I can’t wait to launch some of these wines this year. Wait to be amazed...! Opportunities like this don't come along every day!
 

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