Tuesday 30 April 2013

More Than Just Wine...



When we travel to different wine regions around the world, of course we find interesting stories and meet great people who link us to much more than just the wine in the bottle: we learn about their histories, both social and political. But I have never been struck by this more than in South Africa. It isn't just that the winemakers have great stories to tell - they do! - but they are really living through and contributing to some of the most significant social change in any wine region I've visited. Thre are so many complexities...just look at the contrast between the photos above and below...Nothing is simple...
 
 
Our suppliers are very active contributing to their local communities, often where the government has failed to provide services. Many of the producers we work with have set up nurseries for local children so they will be ready for school when older. And some older students benefit from having their school fees, or even university costs, paid by our winemakers. Money has also gone into housing for farmworkers, and obviously the vineyards are a great source of employment.

A real case of the wine we sell going back into local communities...

 
 




 
 

Star Winemaker on Board

I've been friends with Bruwer Raats for several years after meeting him through my previous employment. He is one of the stars of the South African wine industry, consistently making award winning Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc. In January this year his top wine (MR de Compostella) was voted as the most memorable wine in the world for 2012 by Neil Martin from the Wine Advocate. But this is just one of many many awards, and all justified...Bruwer's wines have always been among my favourites from South Africa.
 

The Raats family have stuck firm to their intention just to produce the best of two main varieties. They only produce Chenin Blancs in their white range, and Cabernet Franc dominates the reds. Over the past year, Bruwer has been developing an "entry" level Cab Franc - his top wines are quite pricey! - to give consumers an introduction into what he produces. This wine has not yet been released into export markets...yet!
 
We caught up with Bruwer over a pizza and tasting. It was lovely to see him again and to taste his new vintages. And the best news...we can launch the new Cabernet France wine later in the year as an exclusive to DW under a special label just for us and at an affordable price! It is juicy, fruity, and soft, just like eating blueberry pie!

Old and New South Africa in a Glass

On April 27 South Africa held its first post-Apartheid elections, the first with universal adult suffrage. Nelson Mandela became President, and the day was subsequently celebrated as Freedom Day.
 

 
 
Far removed from the drastic political changes sweeping the country, Bersig was continuing its long tradition of making port. Harvested and vinified prior to the April election of 1994, this wine was stored in barrel according to Bersig's normal procedure. Of course, in 1995 Bersig followed the same routine, making another port wine. At some stage, there was pressure to clear some space, and so these two barrels of 1994 and 1995 port were blended and eventually stored away in the corner of the cellar in one barrel. 

 

2014 is the 20th anniversary of the "new" South Africa, life after Apartheid. A special release perhaps for next year to celebrate the occasion...a rare port blended from the old and new.

 
Photos from the trip to South Africa will be on Winesafe but if you want to see them now, follow the links below. Three parts...

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151625112711241.1073741832.738991240&type=1&l=0664d170fb
 

Tuesday 23 April 2013

Good News 2013 from South Africa and ... Going the Extra Mile

A quick update while we are on the road here in South Africa. Thought we all needed a good news story following the tricky 2012 harvest in Europe and other parts of the world. South Africa 2013 is looking great. Good volume. Great quality. Consistent pricing. Interesting new options from our favourite suppliers and a few new ones (hopefully a big name among them!) to introduce to the range. 


Of course the traditional whites are looking fab: Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc... But there are some great Rhone blends, both white and red, and super good Cab Franc. And yes, even some fantastic Pinotage (Gus, yes... you'll just have to trust me!).

Being our first time out here, and as an Englishman and an Aussie, we have had to work hard to convince these South Africans that we're alright. So we've been throwing ourselves into every challenge set by these tricky winemakers. Mr Bruce Jack has tried feeding us to the sharks, taking us to Muizenberg for a spot of surfing before our tasting back at the winery. Obviously both of us survived (I promise I am typing with both hands!) although our tasting skills are much better than our surfing talent! 

And we've also found a new way of exploring vineyards. I bet no other wine company would "segway" around vineyards.


We'll keep going that extra mile for the rest of our week out here, even if it kills us! We have been told about all the animals that are out to get us so I'm sure that challenge is yet to come. In the meantime, we'll keep putting together some great blends to add to our range... 2013 could be Sth Africa's year!

Monday 8 April 2013

2012 Rioja and Some New Discoveries


After travelling from Jumilla to Bullas, up to Zaragoza and Cariñena, I finally made it to Rioja in one of the coldest and snowiest winters for a very long time. Chilly but one of the most beautiful landscapes...


Laguardia with the Cantabrian mountains covered in snow

A year of extremes: a very hot summer, no rain, and now late season snow. Will have to wait and see what sort of impact this cold wet winter has on the next vintage but in the meantime, we are all waiting to hear the classification of the 2012 vintage by the Consejo in Rioja. When I was out there, general opinion wavered between Very Good and Excellent. In any case, here is my take on it...

Tasting at Altos

My feeling is that 2012 is an outstanding vintage for younger styles of wines. Not that it won't also be very good for Reserva level wines, but I just feel that the younger joven and roble style wines are really going to shine this year. Loads of flashy bright fruit, elegance, balance. Perfect drinking over the coming year. Whites are amazingly concentrated as well but we'll have to move quickly to secure volume given the very short harvest!

I tasted through wines from all our key Rioja suppliers: Altos, Pagos de Tahola, Bujanda, Valpiedra, Primicia, Muriel, Izadi and Los Hermanos Manzanos, as well as squeezing in a visit to San Valero to look at our hero wine Bombero 2012. There are some great follow-on vintages as well as a few new wines we are working on launching over the coming year. I was also really impressed by the wines made by Burgo Viejo. This is a sort of mini private coop with a very innovative young Basque winemaker intent on making fruit-driven elegant wines. We currently take a couple of wines under the Palacio de Verano label and they sell really well. I think there is more of a story to tell here: fresh fruity wines more in the style of Beaujolais than Rioja and a great winemaker in Gorka Etxebarria.


As well as visits to our existing suppliers, I squeezed in a few new bodegas. You've already seen my notes on Gomez Cruzado, the tiny bodega with a long history in the heart of Rioja, Haro. But there are a few other really interesting projects we can work on.



I had been working with our supplier of successful wines such as Campeador and Ermita de San Lorenzo to develop a Rioja Rosado more in the style of a light fresh rose from Provence. We have finalised the project and you will see the direction of the brand/label above. But apart from the Rioja Rosado, I have since approved a lovely fresh juicy young Tempranillo which will go under the same label. This is in the best tradition of "joven" wines: could be served slightly chilled, perfect for both summer and winter, very commercial style of wine that our customers will love. And the good news...it's already won a medal: Silver in the China Wine and Spirits Competition.

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Matsu DO Toro
So the next great discovery from this trip is thanks to the producer of this iconic wine from Toro. You may have seen this in Spain on holiday, or perhaps in Majestic here in the UK. It is remarkable for the label featuring a young man, middle-aged man, and old man for each of the three wines: joven, crianza and reserva. The team behind this wine is Vintae, a company set up by 28 year old Richie (Ricardo - he really is Spanish!) whose family has had vineyards in Rioja for generations. But the inspiration to start his own company came from his father who worked in construction. One of the buildings Richie's Dad owned is a carpark in Logroño. But not just any carpark. Down the back of the first level of parking underground is a small apartment, kitted out with bathroom, living space, kitchen and even a fire place. But the piece de resistance is the mini winery! Yes, his Dad actually made some wine in the basement of a carpark! One of the more bizarre places I've tasted wine. But the wine is great... they have been working on a Garnacha project in Rioja and have made some super complex wine at very competitive pricing. With the marketing expertise evident in the Toro wine above, the brand for Direct Wines will also be great...more to come...

And finally, I have to mention one of the highlights of the trip. A visit to Lopez de Heredia, makers of the iconic Riojan wine Tondonia. 136 years of history, everything still done to the original recipe (big wooden "tanks", own barrel makers, super long ageing). We just need to get our hands on some to sell to our more discerning customers!

Some famous names
 
No safety net to climb to the top of these tanks!

So after a few days in Rioja, headed off to Somontano. More to come soon...