Jumilla

 

After arriving in London from Australia at 6 in the morning, I did a quick dash home, changed my suitcase, and headed back out to the airport to catch a flight to Murcia on the Med coast of Spain. I think I would have been about 20 years under the average age of the passengers on this Easyjet flight, Murcia airport being the closest for many British retirees to reach their beach side apartments. But I didn't stay coast side, heading instead about 40 minutes inland to one of Spain's biggest cities, Murcia. 

 

Cathedral in the centre of Murcia

Fighting off jet lag (no sleep in economy at the very back of the A380!), I was tired but couldn't complain about being in this gem of the Mediterranean. This is a city rich in history and colour with elements of tyipcal Spanish Mudéjar architecture. I was lucky to have one night and morning in the city to enjoy the local tapas and see a bit of the old town.

 

Morning light highlights the vibrant colours of Spain

Anchovies anyone?

For more photos of Murcia, click here Murcia Photos.

 

But time for work... The reason for my visit was to check out a couple of interesting producers in Jumilla. So goodbye Murcia... But what a lovely drive out to the vineyards as several types of fruit tree were out in bloom....

 

Pink blossoms and almond trees

First stop was the Valle del Carche. We seemed to drive into a wedge between mountains and laid out before us was a tapestry of the most beautiful vineyards, fruit trees and forest. 

Valle del Carche

First visit was to Hacienda del Carche, a family run bodega producing Monastrell and other international varieties such as Cabernet, Petit Verdot and Syrah. They also produce some white varieties. The view from the bodega is impressive:

Looking out over Hacienda del Carche's vineyards

There are some great juicy rich blends at competitive prices as well as some interesting roble style wines and a few crianza/reserva parcels which have been hidden away in the barrel room. Not surprising given the long history of these vineyards. Great photos on the wall and old winemaking tools. See below the cofin formerly used for pressing:

Cofin used for pressing

Like a museum!

And across the other side of the Valley is the famous estate of Casa de la Ermita. This was the bodega that really put Jumilla on the map. At the back of the bodega is an original farm worker's hut where vineyard workers used to work, live and keep their animals. Great to visit but difficult at my height...these guys were small!

 For more photos of Jumilla, click here Jumilla Photos

Discovery of the Year! A Hidden Gem in Rioja...

Last week while travelling in Rioja, I visited an amazing Bodega which is just about the best kept secret of the region. We are talking about the golden mile of Rioja: Barrio de la Estación de Ferrocarril, Haro in the heart of Rioja Alta. It is a tiny stretch of road surrounding the original railway line Tudela - Bilbao, home to some of the greatest names in Rioja: Lopez de Heredia (Tondonia), Muga, Roda, la Rioja Alta, Bilbalnas...a fairly impressive list of neighbours! Tucked away in the middle of these prestigious Bodegas is little Gomez Cruzado who has a long history dating back to 1886. Below is a copy of the poster advertising the wines in 1922...

Original poster for Gomez Cruzado 1922

So how has this gone unnoticed for so long? The owners are Mexican and nearly all the wine was shipped over to South America, leaving very little for the domestic Spanish market and nothing for other export. It is now managed by two young guns in Rioja – a pairing of the best Riojan know-how in viticulture and winemaking – and they have spotted the incredible potential to make brilliant wines with great heritage and provenance. They control 50ha of vines in premium sites in Rioja Alavesa (between San Vincente de la Sonsierra and Laguardia) and also from sites in Rioja Alta, close to Cenicero and also in higher altitude regions south of Nájera (750m).

The Bodega in the heart of Haro

There are various interesting wines from Joven to Reserva, including some single varietal, single vineyard wines. But the most amazing wine I tasted was a 2001 Gran Reserva in magnum. Before the new management came into the Bodega, the owners didn’t know what to do with this wine so had wanted to uncork it and pour it down the drain! I couldn’t believe my ears when I was told this, having to ask them to repeat the word for “uncork” in Spanish (surely it was a misunderstanding?!). A great wine from the best vintage in the last few decades. I can’t wait to launch some of these wines this year. Wait to be amazed...! Opportunities like this don't come along every day!