Wednesday 19 February 2014

The King of Varieties and the Return of the big Red



In the North-East, extending right up to the French border, Aragon has one of the most complex histories in Spain. It was declared a kingdom back in the 11th century and remained as such up until the 18th. The Kings and Queens of Aragon are some of the best known and most colourful characters in Spanish history. Add to that the influences of Islamic traditions, especially in the Mudejar architecture of the region, and the myths and legends of magic and local folklore, and you soon see why this is a cross-roads of various cultures and époques.

While the history is dense, this area of the country is actually the second least populated after La Mancha. The sense of space is inspiring. From thick forested areas in the north, to nearly desert-like conditions in the south, one thing is common throughout: altitude, dramatic landscapes, good food (sorry can’t escape a food mention!) and Garnacha. Well ok so the vineyards don’t cover the entire region but there are some stunning old sites - even of pre-phylloxera age – throughout this former kingdom. And the key fact to point out here is that there is significant evidence to suggest that Aragon is the origin, the birthplace, of this variety.

 

Just like the landscape, the Garnacha here is big, confronting and full of complexity. Sweet red fruit, powerful, it packs a punch. We know our customers love rich, full-bodied reds, and I can’t think of many better regions to find this style of wine (at a good price!).  The high altitude and old bush vines produce Garnacha of unrivaled quality.



During the last decade the region has lost a lot of its precious old vine resource: the government was actually giving out money to rip up vineyards and ridiculously the older ones were the first to go! But some growers hung on and thank goodness they did! There are still pockets of really old bush vines making enormously rich and spicy reds. In fact, some of you might remember a wine called Altogrado: an intense Garnacha from Calatayud. Well it’s on its way back. The 2013 will be from Cariñena, just down the road from the original source but each year I´ll be looking out for the best possible grapes from all over Aragon to make the biggest richest fruitiest Garnacha we can find. The 2014 should be ready for summer (perfect to celebrate the end of a wet winter!).






Tuesday 18 February 2014

Valencia: not just Oranges



How can you not love that? Fideua is one of the typical dishes – perhaps lesser well known that the more famous paella – of Valencia and surrounding areas. Thin noodles, seafood and most importantly that delicious crusty bottom. Full of flavour, satisfying, hedonistic. Like the city itself. Valencia is that rare combination of the old and the new: classical buildings, narrow streets, layers of history in the old town, and modern striking architecture (think Calatrava) – set in the dried up riverbed that runs through this hot coastal town. And then there are the beaches along the sparkling Mediterranean coast.   


While a lot of us are sat here in the depths of winter – many of us in a wet and semi-submerged England – it is hard to picture the special light of this jewel of the Med. So how can we all get a bit of the Valencian vibe? Apart from a couple of hours with Easyjet... wine. It may not be Rioja, Priorat or Ribera but here we can find juicy fruity, perfectly aged reds. I really do think this is one of the best value regions in the world for Reserva and Gran Reserva style wines. OK they may not have the complexity of Bordeaux or the richness of a big Barossa Shiraz but then I love old German silent films and would rather watch Corrie or Eastenders at the end of a hard day in the office than the director’s cut of Metropolis. It’s a matter of occasion.




So why are these wines such good value? Just like the lifestyle, winemaking here is relaxed. It’s all about capturing a bit of Spanish sun in a glass. None of the high costs of land, grapes or paperwork that the Riojans have to contend with. And a tradition of aging wines - think big barrel rooms - that is as second nature as a siesta in summer. Red berries, spice, coconut and vanilla. Inexpensive but just like the food in Valencia, these wines are perfectly crafted, nothing out of place, and rely on the purity of the local produce: gorgeous vines nurtured by the southern Spanish sun. 

Sometimes as "insiders" in the wine trade we over-complicate things. Next time you have a choice between an expensive bottle from some well-known "posh" part of the world, perhaps that needs several more years before it is even approachable, and a soft, rounded, juicy red perfectly ready to drink, don't feel guilty for choosing the more appealing and immediately satisfying option. After all, we all need a bit of Kat and Alfie when Fritz gets a bit much.


Gratuitous orange shot...it is Valencia after all!