Last week while travelling in Rioja, I visited an amazing
Bodega which is just about the best kept secret of the region. We are talking
about the golden mile of Rioja: Barrio de la Estación de Ferrocarril, Haro in
the heart of Rioja Alta. It is a tiny stretch of road surrounding the original railway
line Tudela - Bilbao, home to some of the greatest names in Rioja: Lopez de Heredia (Tondonia),
Muga, Roda, la Rioja Alta, Bilbalnas...a fairly impressive list of neighbours! Tucked away in the middle of these prestigious Bodegas is little Gomez Cruzado
who has a long history dating back to 1886. Below is a copy of the poster
advertising the wines in 1922...
Original poster for Gomez Cruzado 1922 |
So how has this gone unnoticed for so long? The owners are
Mexican and nearly all the wine was shipped over to South America, leaving very
little for the domestic Spanish market and nothing for other export. It is now
managed by two young guns in Rioja – a pairing of the best Riojan know-how in
viticulture and winemaking – and they have spotted the incredible potential to
make brilliant wines with great heritage and provenance. They control 50ha of
vines in premium sites in Rioja Alavesa (between San Vincente de la Sonsierra
and Laguardia) and also from sites in Rioja Alta, close to Cenicero and also in
higher altitude regions south of Nájera (750m).
The Bodega in the heart of Haro |
There are various interesting wines from Joven to Reserva,
including some single varietal, single vineyard wines. But the most amazing
wine I tasted was a 2001 Gran Reserva in magnum. Before the new management came
into the Bodega, the owners didn’t know what to do with this wine so had wanted
to uncork it and pour it down the drain! I couldn’t believe my ears when I was
told this, having to ask them to repeat the word for “uncork” in Spanish
(surely it was a misunderstanding?!). A great wine from the best vintage in the last few decades. I can’t wait to launch some of these
wines this year. Wait to be amazed...! Opportunities like this don't come along every day!
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